Medpot Minstrel: Hydroponics Medical Marijuana

Friday, March 09, 2007


Ventilation for Fresh Air and Vigorous Medpot Plants

Marijuana plants are very much alive and they need to breathe, just like you and me. Proper ventilation in your grow room is essential—not “fairly important,” as some beginner’s advice sites on the web will have you believe.

In my 12 x 12 grow space, I use around 20 gallons of water (72 Liters, to be exact) per week. Most of this water is sucked up by my plants then it is transpired through the leaves, only to evaporate into the air.

Without proper ventilation, I’d have a muggy, overly humid and stuffy space that would be a ripe place for fungi and disease--and the lack of air would stunt the growth of my plants.

If you’ve ever entered a house that hasn’t been aired out in days then you know what I’m talking about. Your first urge is to run to the windows and open them wide, to let the life-giving air fill the space.

And if you spend any time in an unventilated space you know how lethargic your get. Your cannabis plants are the same way. If you want to encourage their growth (and health) you have to let fresh air in on a regular basis.

Ventilation is necessary, even at night when your HID light is switched off. Plant transpiration takes place round the clock. At minimum, you need two fans—an exhaust one to suck bad, humid air out of the room, and an intake fan to bring fresh air in.

I have a fairly costly charcoal filter on my exhaust fan to absorb any telltale odors. Even though I live in one of the states that has legalized medicinal marijuana.

It’s still a good idea to keep your growing activities secret from nosy neighbors. The feds do bust people, even if your state law permits you to grow medpot.

Larger grow rooms sometimes use blowers to ventilate, but they tend to be extremely noisy. I bought two whisper quiet large inline fans and I oil them frequently.

Some grow rooms are totally sealed and keep the air circulating using an air conditioning unit. You can choose between water based cooling-heating or air-based, which usually involves a duct to a central heating-cooling unit or to another unit that is located outside.

With global warming increasingly becoming more and more evident in our long, hot summers, I myself am thinking about investing in an air conditioner and sealing my grow room. But I’m not there yet.

Stomata are microscopic pores on the underside of your leaves that control the intake of carbon dioxide and the release of oxygen. The leaf also secretes moisture. When the stomata get clogged up by dirt or residue from various sprays, airflow within the plant is restricted and growth stops.

I use a propane burner to generate extra CO2, which boosts the growth of my six ladies, and raises the temperature in the grow room. All the more reason for ventilation. However, I shut my exhaust fan off or turn it to the minimum setting, in order to prevent the generated CO2 from exiting the room.

The cooling of the intake fans is usually enough to maintain the desired grow room temperature (72 to 76º F), despite the heat generated by my 600W High Pressure Sodium light and the CO2 generator. At these times, I shut off all extra heating, even in winter, since it would put my grow room temp over the top.

The tech guys at Advanced Nutrients Medical keep reminding me to generate only as much CO2 as the food I give my plants. So if the ppm of my nutrient solution (consisting of Sensi Grow A & B, or Sensi Bloom A & B, as well as the root colonizers at half-strength and the other supplements) is 1200 parts per million (ppm), then I should be generating 1200 ppm of CO2.

They also say that plants receiving regular CO2 should receive more food, than untreated plants. So if I feed them more food, let’s say during the bloom period, and I go from 1200 ppm to 1500 ppm, then I have to increase my CO2 generation to 1500 ppm, as well.

You must have precise control of the humidity, temperature, ventilation, air circulation, CO2 level, as well as the pH and CF of your nutrient solution at all times, not to forget ppm. If you optimize all these variables, you are assured of a decent crop.

Another way to assure an outstanding crop is to use all the products suggested by Advanced Nutrients Medical. If you find the Nutrient Calculator on their website, you’ll see that using the basic 2-part fert is not enough, even though it was custom designed for cannabis.

By using Grandma Enggy’s Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid, you are basically recreating a fertile, rich, black humus environment in liquid from in your nutrient reservoir. By adding B-52 and Grandma Enggy’s Seaweed Extract, you’re not only administering all the basic B-vitamins that your plants need to cope with stresses—such as drought or overwatering—but also an array of other vitamins as well as a natural antibiotic, that helps fight off pathogens.

By adding Sensi Zym, I am making sure that my baked clay pebbles are cleaned of all accumulated plant debris and that these are transformed into easily absorbable nutrients by the over eighty live enzymes in this product.

Sensi Zym has been tested against its competitors and has consistently shown a larger content of active biotics as well as having a longer shelf life than its rival products.

I still carefully flush and wash my clay pebbles in all six pots in between crops. Proper sanitation is not only common sense, but it’s an essential habit that all medpot growers should acquire.

When I consider all the vital ingredients for growing my pot plants in a healthy way to assure a most abundant harvest, I put the micro and macro nutrients made by Advanced Nutrients Medical at the top of the list.

Of course light, heat, water, and ventilation play an equally important role in providing Claire and I a new batch of medicine every 16 weeks, or so. When buying your fans, figure out how quickly they change the air in the room. If the air is circulated with adequate frequency, you will be rewarded with large plants and healthy, potent buds.

posted by Wes @ 12:05 PM

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