Medpot Minstrel: Hydroponics Medical Marijuana

Thursday, March 29, 2007

How I became a connoisseur of Connoisseur

This is week three of my bloom cycle, but instead of adding my usual mix of Sensi Bloom A & B, I decided to flush my system and add a brand new super fertilizer that was just introduced by Advanced Nutrients. Here’s how it all came about.

I noticed that I was low on B-52, Barricade, and Final Phase, so I went to my local garden shop to replenish my supplies. The owner knows me so as I was browsing their collection of fans and ducts, he approached me and asked—“How would you like to be part of an experiment?”

I never say yes to anything, until I know the details, so he filled me in. Advanced Nutrients has just launched a brand new product called Connoisseur, a two-part liquid bloom phase premium fertilizer that is aimed at the high end of the market. In fact, it sells for three times the price of their normal ferts.

I told the owner that my free-lance income isn’t what it used to be, and that as much as I admire all Advanced Nutrients products, I simply could not afford this. He said no worries, the company will let me have the product for free, provided I supply them with the expected phenomenal results, including photographs.

“What about the other ingredients in my nutrient solution?” I asked. You can still mix everything you were using before with Sensi Bloom A & B, but you have to check their Nutrient Calculator to figure out how much Connoisseur A and Connoisseur B to add each week.

“You mean I can still use my root colonizers, vitamins, and bloom boosters, the same as before?” I asked. “Yes. Definitely. Check their website to figure out the exact amounts of each ingredient. “This is week 3 of my bloom cycle. Can I switch in midstream?” “I don’t see why not,” was the reply.

So he gave me a generous supply of this brand new ultra-premium bloom phase cannabis food and I came home real excited. I had a talk with my ladies and told them that I had a special surprise for them.

They’re becoming the beneficiaries of painstaking research that was conducted by the plant scientists at Advanced Nutrients, in order to find the perfect formula of high-priced, superb quality ingredients in order to produce the world’s thickest, heaviest, most potent, and best tasting marijuana medicine possible.

I sat down at my computer and checked out Advancedpedia for Connoisseur Part A & B. The listed ingredients for this miracle product include Amino Chelated Boron, Amino Chelated Calcium, Amino Chelated Cobalt, Amino Chelated Copper, Amino Chelated Iron, Amino Chelated Magnesium, Amino Chelated Manganese, and Amino Chelated Zinc. In addition to Amino Acids, Potassium Nitrate, and other ingredients mixed according to a highly secret formula, this product aimed at the discriminating grower also has Polyamino Alcohols for that extra boost.

It has already been tested in hundreds of hydroponic gardens and is now coming to mine. Usually you would start using it the week after your plants are initiated into flowering by Bud Blood. But starting at week 3 is only one week removed from the suggested starting time.

The Advanced Nutrients plant scientists were given carte blanche where the price of ingredients for Connoisseur was concerned. They had a mandate to produce the finest, most powerful bloom phase plant food on the market, and I’m looking forward to trying out this Stradivarius of fertilizers.

Next, I checked the Nutrient Calculator and found that in my 72 Liter reservoir I have to mix 163.44 mL of Connoisseur A and the same amount of Connoisseur B during week 3 of flowering, along with 100.8 mL of Mother Earth Super Tea Bloom, the same quantity of Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid, 302.4 mL of B-52, 10.8 mL of Barricade, and 30.24 grams of Carbo Load Powder.

In addition, I will add 504 mL of SensiZym and 30.24 grams of Big Bud powder. The other root colonizers were added during week 1 and 2 of flowering, it will not be necessary to add them again for the rest of the bloom phase. The beneficial fungi, bacteria, and microbes will continue to do their work on their own.

The suggested parts per million (ppm) during medium feeding in week 3 is 1400 ppm, the EC is 2. So I’m setting my CO2 generator at 1400 ppm, as well. Connoisseur A & B is designed to be applied to your cannabis roots via hydroponic irrigation. The pH of your nutrient solution should be 5.6.

It is advised not to mix the concentrated ingredients. Always add Part A first to your premix tank or reservoir, then add part B. Part A has an NPK of 4.9-0-3.6, while the NPK of part B is 1.8-5.1-6.4. The combined NPK of Connoisseur is 6.7-5.1-10.0, which means that it’s high in Potassium.

The owners of Advanced Nutrients Medical are so confident that Connoisseur will live up to all expectations, that they’ve put their names to a 100% money-back guarantee if a customer is dissatisfied for any reason.

Not for the faint of heart, Connoisseur is aimed at growers who don’t mind and can afford to pay a premium price for the very best. There will always be people who spend their entire lives eating at fast food joints. Then there are those select few who read the Michelin guide and pick their five star restaurants with care.

If you can’t afford gourmet food for your cannabis plants, stick with the lesser priced Advanced Nutrients products that do an excellent job. However, if you take pride in using the very best, give this new product a try. If what they say is true, then you’ll be rewarded with the highest yields and the most superb quality possible.

In addition to the secret formula that boosts the size, weight, and potency of your buds, Connoisseur A & B also triggers the cannabis plant’s own mechanism that makes it resistant to disease. According to the entry in Advancedpedia, the cell walls of the larger than normal floral growth generated by this miracle product, will ward off pathogens and sucking insects.

I look forward to my ladies enjoying this change in their diet and seeing them thrive as never before. I’ll report back each week as to how they’re doing.

posted by Wes @ 11:48 AM 0 comments links to this post

Friday, March 23, 2007

Gray Mold Loves High Humidity

It’s ironic, that only a couple of weeks ago I wrote a blog entry about the importance of good ventilation in your grow room. Soon after, I was trying to be extra diligent and I took apart my fans to oil them. When I reassembled them I must have inadvertently removed the plastic shield on one of the motor wires, which in turn eventually caused a short.

The short blew a circuit breaker on my main power board and normally I would have noticed the fans being off within a few hours and that would have been the end of that. However, I took my family on a three-day hike to celebrate the arrival of spring, so my grow room had absolutely no ventilation from the time the fans went off to when we came home.

As I mentioned in my blog posting, my six ladies continued to transpire (their leaves were releasing the water in the nutrient solution that the roots sucked up) and the humidity in the grow room just went up and up. My 600W High Pressure Sodium light is on another circuit breaker, so it was working properly; controlled by a timer it went on and off every 12-hours like clock work.

The temperature gauge registered the spike in temp and shut the heater off, but the light still generated a lot of heat, which had nowhere to go. So the room was hot and muggy and airless. Very bad conditions for the cannabis plants, but very good conditions for Botrytis cinerea, the fungus that causes Gray Mold.

The first sign of Gray Mold on your cannabis plants is usually the appearance of a white powder, which soon turns gray. This fungus produces grey Mycelium, as well as clusters of colorless or grey Condia, resembling a bunch of grapes, albeit very tiny.

The symptoms of Gray Mold might be invisible, since sometimes this insidious fungus sets up shop deep inside your buds and by the time you notice that the fan leaves have turned yellow, the infestation is full blown.

Infestation is spread by spores that can either fly through the air or travel on water droplets. Avoid misting your cannabis plants for this very reason. Where did the spores come from and how did they enter my grow room? Lack of wise sanitation practices, probably, and lack of caution when entering the room from the outside.

Over eight thousand species of fungi attack plants and 88 of them are especially fond of cannabis. Fungi are actually microscopic plants that do not produce chlorophyll and they are ever present. I’m willing to bet that some are alive on your skin as you read this.

We got home yesterday and as soon as I entered the grow room to check up on my ladies, I felt there was something wrong. The excess heat and humidity hit me in the chest and I frantically started checking my plants.

I had to remove half a dozen buds (best to take them far away from the grow room and burn them) and I sprayed all six plants with a solution of Piranha. This was fighting fire with fire, since Piranha contains live beneficial fungi, including Trichoderma, which are able to fight the Gray Mold fungi.

Ten minutes of troubleshooting enabled me to discover the short in one of the fans and a bit of electrical tape fixed that problem. So my ventilation system was restored and I flushed my nutrient reservoir to make sure and get rid of any Botrytis that might have infected the nutrient solution.

I mixed up a new batch of nutrients, including Sensi Bloom A & B, the root colonizers, the vitamins, and Grandma Enggy’s Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid. I made sure to include Sensi Zym, since the Botrytis fungus likes to hide in plant debris deep in the grow medium.

I also mixed in a generous amount of Barricade, to allow its Potassium Silicate to toughen the cell walls of my ladies in order to ward off any future attacks of pathogens, such as Botrytis.

This week I had to add the first batch of Big Bud and prayed that its supply of building blocks for the bud sites would make the remaining buds big enough and strong enough to withstand bad fungi, bacteria, and other harmful microorganisms.

Next week I’ll spray with Scorpion Juice, in order to restore the induced systemic resistance that was destroyed by the abnormally high humidity in my grow room. You’ve probably noticed that if you have a cold and you go into an overheated, overly humid environment, you immediately get the sniffles and when the heat goes off and you open a window, you very soon feel much better.

I consider myself lucky, since I’ve heard horror stories of Botrytis cinerea wiping out a growers’ entire crop within a matter of days. I have no way of knowing when the circuit breaker was tripped, perhaps the short didn’t happen immediately after we left, but closer to our coming home.

Mold can live on the walls of the grow room, so I wiped every surface with Advanced Nutrients Medical's Wipe Out. I also washed the floor and got rid of any material that could harbor fungal spores.

If you paint the walls of your grow room white, use a fungus resistant paint. Cleanliness and climate control are the keys to preventing Gray Mold, as well as any other fungal infestation.

On top of everything, my CO2 generator was also activated while we were away. This added to the humidity problem. Today, I went and bought a dehumidifier and hooked it up to a humidity-measuring device. In case my fans ever have another short, the dehumidifier will help to get rid of some of the excess moisture from the air.

If this ever happens to you, carefully remove infested buds and any dead leaves. Discard and burn them. Wash your hands thoroughly both before and after handling your plants.

Some people dust with sulphur in order to fight fungal infestation, but this is a dangerous method and extreme caution is advised. Wear a face-mask, you don’t want to breathe in that poisonous chemical.

Gray Mold most often attacks mature flower buds, but it can also harm your stems, leaves, seeds and seedlings. When it attacks seeds and seedlings, it’s called Damping Off. You can read all about Gray Mold on the Advanced Nutrients Medical website, which has articles on all the major diseases and pests that plague cannabis.

Ironically, Botrytis cinerea is the very same fungus that is allowed to slightly rot grapes on the vine in order to produce some highly sweet wines in Europe, such as Sauternes in France, Auslese wines in Germany, and the world-famous Tokay wines of Hungary.

posted by Wes @ 12:08 AM 0 comments links to this post

Friday, March 16, 2007

Macro and Micro Nutrients, Deficiencies, Overdose

Whenever the appearance of some leaves changes, the first thing that comes to mind is nutrient deficiency. Either that, or too much of a certain nutrient. But before I jump to such conclusions, I always make sure that all the other variables are under control.

Each of the vital ingredients that contribute to healthy cannabis plants has to be checked, in order to narrow down the cause of a leaf’s yellowing, for instance. Is there sufficient air (ventilation), light, and water to maintain the balance required for photosynthesis?

Are the temperature, humidity, and CO2 levels within the desirable range? Before nutrient deficiency or excess can be determined, you have to look at the recent history of the plants. Has anything stressful or potentially stressful happened in the last couple of days?

I’m about to make the final gender selection and switch my six ladies to a 12 hours light, 12 hours darkness regimen. Yes, it’s time for them to start building flowers. I will give them Bud Blood during the first week of flowering, then Big Bud for weeks two, three, and four, followed by Overdrive for weeks five and six.

Bud Blood will help the plant along the natural course of bud formation. Big Bud will contribute the building blocks of bud growth, while Overdrive will accelerate that growth. Sort of like putting gasoline with an additive in your car’s gas tank, then stepping on the gas pedal.

Nutrients are elements that plants need to thrive. Hydrogen, Oxygen, and Carbon are obtained from water and air. Normal air has 300 ppm of carbon dioxide in it without any CO2 generation.

Nutrients are divided into macronutrients (Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium) and micronutrients (Magnesium, Zinc, Boron, Calcium, Cobalt, Copper, Iron, Manganese, Molybdenum, Selenium, Silicon, Sulphur, and Chlorine).

The macro ones are needed by the plant in relatively large quantities, while the micro ones are only needed in trace amounts.

Another way that Nutrients are divided are into Mobile and Immobile Nutrients. Nitrogen, Phosphorus, Potassium, Magnesium, and Zinc are Mobile, all the others are Immobile.

Mobile Nutrients move to the parts of the plant where they are needed. Older leaves show deficiencies of these Nutrients first.

Immobile Nutrients stay in the place within a plant where they are originally deposited. Young shoots and leaves show deficiencies of these Nutrients, before older leaves.

Macronutrients show up as the NPK number on the packaging of each fertilizer. Sensi Grow A & B, for instance—my base fert—has an NPK of 5-2-6, which means that it contains 5% Nitrogen, 2% Phosphorus, and 6% Potassium.

Sensi Bloom A & B has an NPK of 5-4-8, which accounts for the fact that during the flowering stage plants need more Phosphorus and Potassium. In addition, this cannabis specific 2-part has all the micronutrients that my ladies need, in easily absorbable form.

Grandma Enggy’s Seaweed Extract has an NPK of 1.5-1.5-1.5, which means that it has 1.5% of each of the major macronutrients.

Marijuana requires large amounts of Nitrogen during vegetative growth and less of a percentage of Nitrogen in relation to Phosphorus and Potassium, during the bloom phase.

In order to figure out the exact percentage of macronutrients that your plants receive, you not only have to take into account the NPK of your base fert, but also the NPK’s of all your supplements.

For instance, during this coming week I’m mixing Sensi One Bloom A & B and Bud Blood. Bud Blood has an NPK of 0-39-25, so when I add that to the NPK of my base fert, I wind up with a total NPK of 5-43-33. I only add Bud Blood for one week, in order to help trigger flowering.

This means that for one week a full 43% of my nutrient solution will be composed of Phosphorus, with 33% Potassium. Nitrogen will stay at the 5% level.

Big Bud has a much more modest level of P and K (0-1-4) but it still changes the ratio of P and K to N. Overdrive has an NPK of 1-3-4.

All the ingredients of my nutrient mix have to be taken into account when figuring my total NPK ratio. B-52, for instance, has an NPK of 2-1-4. Mother Earth Super Tea Bloom, which I like to add to the mix for that organic touch, has an NPK of .50-1.50-2.0.

Composed of alfalfa extract, canola meal, citric acid, crab meal, earthworm castings, fish meal, sea kelp, and shrimp meal, Mother Earth Super Tea Bloom was designed to give my cannabis ladies natural supplements, nutrients, and vitamins—i.e. organic ingredients—that are missing from synthetic fertilizers.

Nitrogen helps my ladies to make proteins that are essential for new protoplasm in the cells. That’s why a bigger relative percentage is needed during vegetative growth. It is utilized in the production of amino acids, enzymes, nucleic acids, chlorophyll, and alkaloids.

Leaf and stem growth depend on Nitrogen and the overall size and vigor of each cannabis plant depends on the availability of this macronutrient. It is not only active during the formation of young shoots and leaves, but also while young buds are being formed.

Nitrogen comes in Ammoniacal form (too much of this can burn your plants) or in the more common form of Nitrates. This latter form is much slower to assimilate than the Ammoniacal kind.

The most common nutrient deficiency is Nitrogen deficiency. Symptoms are a lower growth rate, lower leaves which are unable to produce chlorophyll turn yellow between the veins, while the veins stay green. Eventually, the entire leaf becomes yellow and dies.

Stems and leaf undersides may turn reddish purple. This symptom could also mean Phosphorus deficiency. Nitrogen is a very Mobile nutrient, it must be added regularly to fast growing gardens, otherwise it dissipates into the environment.

An overdose of Nitrogen will result in excessively lush foliage that lacks hardness and hardiness. It is vulnerable to insect attacks and fungal infestations. Stems are weak and may fold easily. The plants are unable to uptake water.

Allowed to go untreated, a Nitrogen overdose may result in leaves turning brown, drying, and falling off. It also results in roots growing very slowly, turning a dark color, and rotting.

If you’re growing in hydro, Nitrogen overdose can be treated by flushing your system with pure water for one week giving the plants a chance to use up the excess Nitrogen in their leaves. If symptoms persist, cut back on the amount of the Nitrogen that you add to the nutrient mix.

Phosphorus is essential for photosynthesis and aids energy transfer within the plant. This macronutrient is involved in maintaining overall vigor, as well as resin and seed production.

Phosphorus deficiency is indicated by stunted growth, and bluish-green leaves, often with blotches.

Reddish purple stems and leaf undersides may also result. Large black blotches appear on severely affected leaves and they end up dropping off. Flowering happens much slower and buds are generally smaller. These plants are susceptible to insect and fungal attacks.

Potassium is utilized by the plant in the manufacture of sugars and starches. Growth by cell division is affected by Potassium. Chlorophyll production is enhanced and stomata openings are regulated by this macronutrient.

Signs of Potassium deficiency are older leaf tips then leaves turning dark yellow and dying. Stems become brittle. Disease often follows.

By using a synthetic or organic fertilizer from Advanced Nutrients, along with the suggested supplements, root colonizers, and bloom boosters, you can be sure that you’re feeding your cannabis plants the optimum levels of all macro and micronutrients, so you don’t have to worry about deficiencies or overdosing.

posted by Wes @ 4:31 PM 0 comments links to this post

Friday, March 09, 2007

Ventilation for Fresh Air and Vigorous Medpot Plants

Marijuana plants are very much alive and they need to breathe, just like you and me. Proper ventilation in your grow room is essential—not “fairly important,” as some beginner’s advice sites on the web will have you believe.

In my 12 x 12 grow space, I use around 20 gallons of water (72 Liters, to be exact) per week. Most of this water is sucked up by my plants then it is transpired through the leaves, only to evaporate into the air.

Without proper ventilation, I’d have a muggy, overly humid and stuffy space that would be a ripe place for fungi and disease--and the lack of air would stunt the growth of my plants.

If you’ve ever entered a house that hasn’t been aired out in days then you know what I’m talking about. Your first urge is to run to the windows and open them wide, to let the life-giving air fill the space.

And if you spend any time in an unventilated space you know how lethargic your get. Your cannabis plants are the same way. If you want to encourage their growth (and health) you have to let fresh air in on a regular basis.

Ventilation is necessary, even at night when your HID light is switched off. Plant transpiration takes place round the clock. At minimum, you need two fans—an exhaust one to suck bad, humid air out of the room, and an intake fan to bring fresh air in.

I have a fairly costly charcoal filter on my exhaust fan to absorb any telltale odors. Even though I live in one of the states that has legalized medicinal marijuana.

It’s still a good idea to keep your growing activities secret from nosy neighbors. The feds do bust people, even if your state law permits you to grow medpot.

Larger grow rooms sometimes use blowers to ventilate, but they tend to be extremely noisy. I bought two whisper quiet large inline fans and I oil them frequently.

Some grow rooms are totally sealed and keep the air circulating using an air conditioning unit. You can choose between water based cooling-heating or air-based, which usually involves a duct to a central heating-cooling unit or to another unit that is located outside.

With global warming increasingly becoming more and more evident in our long, hot summers, I myself am thinking about investing in an air conditioner and sealing my grow room. But I’m not there yet.

Stomata are microscopic pores on the underside of your leaves that control the intake of carbon dioxide and the release of oxygen. The leaf also secretes moisture. When the stomata get clogged up by dirt or residue from various sprays, airflow within the plant is restricted and growth stops.

I use a propane burner to generate extra CO2, which boosts the growth of my six ladies, and raises the temperature in the grow room. All the more reason for ventilation. However, I shut my exhaust fan off or turn it to the minimum setting, in order to prevent the generated CO2 from exiting the room.

The cooling of the intake fans is usually enough to maintain the desired grow room temperature (72 to 76º F), despite the heat generated by my 600W High Pressure Sodium light and the CO2 generator. At these times, I shut off all extra heating, even in winter, since it would put my grow room temp over the top.

The tech guys at Advanced Nutrients Medical keep reminding me to generate only as much CO2 as the food I give my plants. So if the ppm of my nutrient solution (consisting of Sensi Grow A & B, or Sensi Bloom A & B, as well as the root colonizers at half-strength and the other supplements) is 1200 parts per million (ppm), then I should be generating 1200 ppm of CO2.

They also say that plants receiving regular CO2 should receive more food, than untreated plants. So if I feed them more food, let’s say during the bloom period, and I go from 1200 ppm to 1500 ppm, then I have to increase my CO2 generation to 1500 ppm, as well.

You must have precise control of the humidity, temperature, ventilation, air circulation, CO2 level, as well as the pH and CF of your nutrient solution at all times, not to forget ppm. If you optimize all these variables, you are assured of a decent crop.

Another way to assure an outstanding crop is to use all the products suggested by Advanced Nutrients Medical. If you find the Nutrient Calculator on their website, you’ll see that using the basic 2-part fert is not enough, even though it was custom designed for cannabis.

By using Grandma Enggy’s Humic Acid and Fulvic Acid, you are basically recreating a fertile, rich, black humus environment in liquid from in your nutrient reservoir. By adding B-52 and Grandma Enggy’s Seaweed Extract, you’re not only administering all the basic B-vitamins that your plants need to cope with stresses—such as drought or overwatering—but also an array of other vitamins as well as a natural antibiotic, that helps fight off pathogens.

By adding Sensi Zym, I am making sure that my baked clay pebbles are cleaned of all accumulated plant debris and that these are transformed into easily absorbable nutrients by the over eighty live enzymes in this product.

Sensi Zym has been tested against its competitors and has consistently shown a larger content of active biotics as well as having a longer shelf life than its rival products.

I still carefully flush and wash my clay pebbles in all six pots in between crops. Proper sanitation is not only common sense, but it’s an essential habit that all medpot growers should acquire.

When I consider all the vital ingredients for growing my pot plants in a healthy way to assure a most abundant harvest, I put the micro and macro nutrients made by Advanced Nutrients Medical at the top of the list.

Of course light, heat, water, and ventilation play an equally important role in providing Claire and I a new batch of medicine every 16 weeks, or so. When buying your fans, figure out how quickly they change the air in the room. If the air is circulated with adequate frequency, you will be rewarded with large plants and healthy, potent buds.

posted by Wes @ 12:05 PM 0 comments links to this post

Thursday, March 01, 2007

Tap Water, Sweet Leaf, and Coco Coir

While I’m waiting for my plants to grow and my sex selection process to be finalized, I am installing water filters on the intake pipes of my reservoir. We used to have relatively clean water coming from our taps in our municipality, but I’ve noticed lately that the water in the reservoir turned cloudy as soon as I opened the tap.

Tap water is either hot or cold. The cold water pipe doesn’t have as much calcium and sodium built up in it as its hot water equivalent, but I’ve been told to let the water run for a few minutes just to make sure that it’s as pure as it gets.

On the hot water side, you have rust, lead deposits, salts and calcium. That’s why when you fill a glass with hot water it’s much more milky than when you do this with cold. I haven’t even mentioned the chlorine and the flouride that most cities add to their water supply.

So I’m installing a carbon filter on both the cold and hot water taps. A reverse osmosis filter would probably be better, but I can’t afford one right now. I use as little of the hot water as possible to bring the temperature of my solution up to the desired level.

I usually keep my reservoir at 60º to 65º F, and the temperature of my grow room at 70º to 75º F during lighting periods, and about ten degrees cooler during periods of darkness. The reason I keep my reservoir cooler than my air temperature is because nutrient solution at the cooler temperature holds more oxygen.

Borrowing aquarium technology, I use an airstone in my reservoir to aerate the solution, as well as a small aquarium heater, so I don’t have to use too much hot water to regulate the temperature of the liquid.

An airstone is necessary even in an ebb and flow system like mine, since the porous nature of clay pebbles and the suction of air into my buckets each time they drain, is still not enough to supply my roots with much needed oxygen.

I remember the time when my roots were getting slimy. This was before I was told to use Piranha, Tarantula, and Voodoo Juice at half strength in hydro. I panicked and called the Advanced Nutrients Medical tech guys right away.

They suggested that I should stop administering the root colonizers immediately, and to flush my system with a mild solution of HyOx. This interesting product delivers oxygen straight to the roots in the form of hydrogen peroxide.

If I weren’t using root colonizers, I could add HyOx into my nutrient mix at the rate of 1 mL per Litre, two or three times a week. However, the concentrated oxygen in HyOx will kill off the beneficial microorganisms that are colonizing my roots, when I use Piranha, Tarantula, Voodoo Juice, as well as SensiZym.

I never pour HyOx directly in its concentrated form into my reservoir. I always dilute it at a 6:1 ratio before I pour it in. HyOx is corrosive—keep it out of reach of children.

The suggested rate of application when flushing your system is 30 mL per 4 Litres or 1 Gallon. However, I used it at half strength, so I flushed with 15 mL per Gallon.

This killed off about half of the microorganisms in my root systems. Then I was advised to add the four root colonizers also at half strength, in order to help recolonize my roots with the beneficial fungi, bacteria, microbes, and enzymes.

SensiZym contains extremely bioactive key enzymes, such as chitinases, glucaneses, and proteases. These are able to split apart complex carbohydrate molecules, such as those found in harmful fungi and plant debris.

SensiZym does not harm the beneficial fungi in Piranha. On the contrary, by breaking down the plant debris and harmful pathogens in your grow medium, it helps feed the beneficial fungi, bacteria, and microbes contained in the root colonizers that I use to enhance the growth of my cannabis plants.

Chitin is a polymer of N-acetyl-glucosamine. Chitinases are commonly found in nature, secreted by microbes living in the soil. Advanced Nutrients includes only certain types of chitinases enzymes in SensiZym, ones that function well at room temperature.

Studies have shows that the growth of beneficial fungi is promoted by simply adding chitin to the soil. The chitinases in SensiZym help the Actinomycetes and the Trichoderma in Piranha. These good fungi consume the bad fungi tryijng to harm your root systems.

What actually happened to cause my roots to become slimy was that by using the root colonizers at full strength I encouraged too much of a good thing and the beneficial microorganisms grew in such large numbers that they caused this mishap.

As soon as the HyOx reduced their numbers to a manageable level, the symbiotic balance was restored and my roots became healthy again.

“What are the major concerns of medpot growers these days?” I asked the Advanced Nutrients Medical tech guy the other day. “All our products are being well received. Sweet Leaf has very good reviews in terms of how it enhances aroma and flavor, and people are happy with it.”

“Some people are even experimenting with using Sweet Leaf through the flush cycle. A caller yesterday said that using it in that way tremendously improved his flavor and smell.”

“On the other hand, it increased the time the final product needed to dry. He cured slower at the end, but he got a better product. The general consensus is that we make the best products on the market.”

Just out of curiosity, I asked what media people grow their medpot in these days. He said that out of every five growers, two grow in soil, two in coco coir, and only one in the other hydro media. In the last category, it’s a fifty-fifty split between rockwool and clay pebbles, but the use of rockwool seems to be diminishing.

“Why are people shying away from using rockwool?” I asked. “I think it’s because of the limitations. It comes in pre-cut blocks of various sizes and if you want to expand, you have to stack these things. And when you water up through two six-inch blocks of rockwool, it’s not always easy. People find that clay pebbles are just easier to manage.”

I’m glad I made the choice of using clay pebbles in my six-bucket ebb and flow hydroponic setup. On the other hand, coco coir seems to have become very popular as a grow medium while I wasn’t looking.

“It’s huge! We sell a lot of Monkey Juice, which is specifically designed for coco. But if they use coco, I always tell them to have a bottle of SensiCal standing by. Just because coco can lock out things faster than the other grow media.”

“It is acidic to start with, so when you buy your coco you have to wash it well and it may take one or two grows to balance it out. So I tell people that if the plants show deficiencies to use SensiCal and work on correcting the pH.”

“Coco grows by the seashore and it has a lot of salts in it. If they don’t wash it properly, the salts are left in the coco. And that can bring your pH down. It’s time to use pH Up, in that case.”

So even though Monkey Juice has extra Calcium nitrate in it, the tech guys are saying that if you grow in coco, you should have extra Calcium handy.

posted by Wes @ 9:16 PM 0 comments links to this post